Wilderness Risks

Gopher Snake

Occasionally, some unfortunate soul will engage Dangerous in a conversation about wilderness travel. Whenever these discussions occur, I find a shady spot and lie down for a long nap. Eventually, the unfortunate person who asked discovers they have a pressing dentist appointment, and they rush off to have a root canal without anesthetic. After listening to Dangerous, anything the dentist does to them is painless.

Whenever these conversations occur, someone always wants to know about backcountry dangers. You might think that bear and lion encounters occupy most of these conversations. Actually, that's not the case. Snakes are what concern most people when talking wilderness travel with Dangerous. Sleeping on the ground, especially in the desert, conjures up the horror of a rattler crawling into their sleeping bag during the night. Well I can tell you first hand that bears, lions, and snakes are the least of your worries when riding or hiking with Dangerous and his buddies.

Exhausted Sheep Dog

I can't give you a priority list of all the backcountry dangers we face when heading into the wilderness. Hiking has its risks while riding horses presents another set of possible disasters. The time of year compounds any classification. When it's hot in the desert, you face heat exhaustion, and when its cold hypothermia is a threat at any altitude. I can tell you that physical exhaustion and boredom are my greatest fears.

As you know, sheep dogs are really upbeat and positive. There isn't much that gets us down, but a quick look at my picture above tells you that there are times when Dangerous seriously challenges my happy-go-lucky nature. After swimming the Escalante River at flood stage for the 23rd time, my enthusiasm can seriously wane. Sometimes Dangerous forgets that I have to swim all these crossings with my pack on while he and his buddies wades knee or hip deep. By the end of the day, I am usually not the only hiker who gives Dangerous hell and wants and extended rest.

Utah Takes a Swim

As Dangerous' loyal friend, I will follow him about anywhere, but there are times when I hesitate. He and his buddies might be pressing the upper backpacking age limit, but they still try some trails that cause me to pause and consider. Sometimes I put my paws on the edge of a cliff and gaze into the great beyond, and I occasionally hesitate on some steep, rocky trails Dangerous leads us on. Sheep dogs usually fall end-over-end which can result in serious bodily injury. Unlike Dangerous, I can't grab my ankles and roll. Utah Jack demonstrated this technique on a recent trip to Bluff. He showed Dangerous, Nature Dan, and me the tuck-and-roll method while scouting and entry into White Canyon. Unfortunately, all you get to see is the end result. Dangerous' camera draw was too slow to catch Utah's dive into extremely cold water on a windy November day. Before going with us, you ought to contact some first time hikers who never returned for another desert adventure.

Scary Trail

Steep precipitous trails are bad on foot, but you ought to see them from horse back. A 200 foot drop suddenly becomes 400 feet when you climb on Dottie or Little Guy. It isn't the added four feet you gain sitting in the saddle, but the unpredictable nature of a mare in "heat." I have watched Dottie dance out from under Dangerous on more than one occasion, and when you are negotiating a narrow, rocky trail, you always hope she keeps her purchase. It isn't often that Dangerous and his riding buddies get down and walk, but as you can see, they do occasionally. On this particularly narrow trail, everyone walked the narrow section that dropped off both sides.

Escalante Canyon Waterfall

If forced to choose, I believe the biggest danger facing the High Plateau hikers and riders is weather. My buddies aren't fair weather hikers and riders. They ride in wind, rain, and snow, but they always avoid thunder storms. The back of a horse is no place to be when lightening is cracking around you. Dangerous is more afraid of lightening than bears or cougars. Lightening is scary, but flash floods are worse. Dangerous and Utah have survived three different flash floods while hiking the Escalante River. I was with them during the last one. We started down canyon with dark clouds above and rain in the air. Utah wanted to camp next to the wash, but Dangerous, Denver Dan, and Nature Dan were insistent that we didn't. About 2:00 AM, we woke with two giant waterfalls cascading down the slick rock on either side of us. The wash sounded like there was a freight train headed to Lake Powell under a full head of steam. It was too dark to take pictures, but you can see Dangerous and me sitting next to one waterfall that was still flowing the next morning.

Well, maybe you want to share some of your backcountry dangers with me. I would love to hear about them! By the way, tomorrow Dangerous, Dottie, and me are going to Grover. We will be gone a few days gathering new material. After that, the High Plateau hikers gather for our trip down the Escalante, so you might not hear from me for a while. If you are still interested, check back soon for more Red Rock Rosie adventures.

Canine Companion Tribute

Rosie has Fun

Get him started and Dangerous will put you to sleep offering up his home spun philosophy and words of wisdom. Your eyes will glaze over as you fight to stay awake, but I hope you pay attention to one colloquial phrase he repeats often. "Never trust a man who doesn't like dogs!" In my opinion, he is absolutely right.

As you probably know by now, I am the latest in a long line of canines. Dangerous has always had a dog or two around. When you have a personality like Dangerous, sometimes you have to buy your friends. I don't mean Dangerous pays people to hang out with him, but he did pay $400 for me and drove over 400 miles round trip to pick me up. I didn't know most the dogs that preceded me, but I have heard all the stories and tales about their personalities and adventures. All of them have been an important part of Dangerous' High Plateau travels, so with the backpacking and riding season starting, I thought you might like to hear some of their stories. There have been so many dogs I can't tell you about them all, but I will share with you what I know about a few. Their High Plateau adventures will have to represent all those who willingly and unknowingly followed Dangerous, Utah and Fremont into the backcountry.

Rosie's New Home

Years ago, Ole' Dangerous loved to hunt game birds. At that time, he kept German Shorthair pointers which he used to hunt pheasants and upland game birds. He tells anyone who will listen about the many birds he shot over his pointer Lady Bird. After he gave up hunting, Dangerous started giving herding dogs a try. "Pants" was a female blue healer given to Dangerous' wife Trea over his objections. Dangerous didn't think much of "Pants" at the time, but soon found out she was tireless on the trail and always wanted to go when no else was interested in riding or hiking with him. "Pants" had one serious behavioral problem that caused Dangerous unending grief. While she loved people, she was deadly with other dogs. Dangerous always had to watch her closely when hiking in the Wind Rivers. She liked nothing better than setting ambushes for unsuspecting Golden Retrievers, Black Labs, German Shepherds, etc. Unless Dangerous caught her, she would attack anything on four legs which left Dangerous apologizing to the crunchy-granola types whose dogs "Pants" attacked. Serious retribution was never demanded because the stunned hiker couldn't believe a 35 pound spayed female just kicked their 50 pound dog's butt.

"Pants" and Ernie

Murphy was Dangerous' first Aussie. She joined the High Plateau riders and hikers a year or two before "Pants" died. From what I have heard, Dangerous spent a lot of time keeping "Pants" from killing her. Eventually, an accommodation was reached even though Murphy and "Pants" were never friends. While "Pants" was all bite and no bark, Murphy was just the opposite. She was always starting something, but wasn't interested in finishing what she started. Maybe she knew that backup was readily available. Murphy would frequently get herself in trouble with other canines knowing that her daughter Abbey would finish what she started.

To call Murphy intense is an understatement. Dangerous tells me that while hiking him and Utah would frequently find a spot with a wonderful echo. Even I like to sit and listen to the whistles and yodels bouncing off a distance cliff wall. According to Dangerous, Murphy wasn't content to sit and listen. She joined in barking continuously at her own echo. Murphy's intensity was obvious in everything she did. Dangerous tells me that she was constantly chasing, catching, and retrieving her Frisbee. She also gave birth to a litter of nine pups on the bedroom floor with Trea serving as midwife.

Abbey and Murphy

Dangerous kept one of Murphy's pups. As Trea tells the story, Abbey was weak and failing. Supposedly, Dangerous promised her that she had a permanent home if she lived. When Dangerous wanted to renege on his promise, Trea held him to his commitment. All the "show quality' pups found other homes while struggling Abbey lived sixteen years with Dangerous and his family. Murphy and Abbey were constant companions until Murphy died at fifteen.

Unlike most sheep dogs, Abbey wasn't long on smarts, but boy was she tough. I actually came along a year or two before she died. Even in old age, Abbey was one tough, old girl. Dangerous tells the story regularly about the day his horse Molly kicked Abbey's teeth out. Any other dog would have given up the chase, but not Abbey. She picked herself up out of the ditch, spit out two broken teeth, and continued the chase. Abbey also could sense anyone Ole' Dangerous didn't like. If she picked up even a faint hint from Dangerous that he didn't care for a visitor, you had to restrain Abbey. The visitor could try all the sweet talk they liked, but Abbey was never taken in. According to Utah, you had to physically restrain her or the suspect visitor might get attacked.

Callie, Abbey, and Me

Abbey had a little sister Callie who needs mentioning. Callie was Utah's dog who was very much like her mother Murphy. Callie was intense like her mother, and even after suffering a serious stroke still carried her Frisbee with her. She didn't hike much with the High Plateau bunch, but spent her last years lying on the porch in Grover. After her stroke, she could only turn right, but she maintained that sheep dog attitude until the end.

Well, that's my tribute to our canine companions. I am sure all you dog-people have stories to share. I would love to hear them!

Spring Hike -- 2008

Dangerous and Rosie -- Big Pour Off

Last year, it was Grand Gulch. This year we are hiking down the Escalante River. Dangerous sent invitations out months ago while snow still covered the ground. Since then, communications among the High Plateau hikers has been constant. Deciding when and where to go takes time and delicate negotiations. Denver Dan still works full time, so we try to accommodate his schedule. Nature Dan has to check with his wife to avoid any conflicts with planned Mediterranean vacations. Utah Jack starts his usual whining about cold, stormy weather telling Dangerous he will go if he doesn't have anything better to do. Invitations are extended to others, but few choose to join me and my aging friends for a 40 mile desert hike carrying 50 lb. packs. Not many men Dangerous' and his friends' age think sleeping on the ground, eating freeze dried food, and pooping in the woods for a week is much fun. Dangerous never has to worry about me. I always show up and never complain about the weather or where Dangerous chooses to take us, and I like pooping in the woods.

Before my time, Dangerous and Utah hiked a lot more than they do today. Dangerous has told me that when he and Utah were young they spent many nights every year sleeping on the ground. If you ask Dangerous about his greatest accomplishment, he will tell you he is most proud of hiking the entire length of the Escalante River. It took him 30 years to hike the entire drainage from Hells-Backbone Bridge to Lake Powell and all the side canyons, but he did it. Utah was along for most of it, but he is missing a short section that we plan to hike this year.

Dangerous, Utah, John, Denver Dan, and Rosie

Most people who meet Dangerous always ask about hiking especially at his age. They want to know what motivates a 62 year old man to take these long wilderness walks. You probably have the same question. Well, I am not sure I can answer it in words, so I thought pictures from our 2008 Spring Hike might help you understand. Each place we visit has its unique attractions, but I think the pictures that follow easily explain our interest in Grand Gulch.

Utah and John Examine a Kiva

If you really want to get to know someone, put on your pack and spend five or seven days walking 40 or 50 miles with them. Wilderness backpacking brings out the best and worst in people. Over the years, Dangerous and Utah have forged lasting friendships with many who have come to hike with them while some visitors never return for a second trip. While last year's forced march from Kane Gulch to Collins Spring did not include Nature Dan, we did pick up a new hiker. John is Utah's youngest. Since he has a job and young family, John hasn't hiked with his dad and Dangerous since he was a kid. Utah Jack really enjoyed his son's company, and Dangerous got a set of fresh ears who feigned interest about prehistoric cultures as Dangerous lectured away at every stop. By the end of the trip, John had heard enough. I know I had!

Cactus in Bloom

Even if you aren't interested in ancient cultures, you can appreciate the beauty of Grand Gulch. Cedar Mesa in spring provides an incredible backdrop for ancient Indian ruins and rock art sites. We wander the canyon floor stopping frequently to visit a ruin or hike to an obscure rock art panel. As Dangerous tells it, stand quietly and you can almost hear the whirl of activity that surrounded the place 800 years ago. Listen closely and you can hear turkeys gobbling, dogs barking and children's voices echoing from the rock overhang. Get him going, and Dangerous will describe the sound of drums beating and voices chanting in the nearby kiva. I usually don't pick up on the sounds Dangerous imagines, but I can faintly smell the odors he describes. He always tells first time visitors that we probably would have smelled the place we are visiting before we ever saw it.

Well, I think you get the idea about what attracts my aging friends to Grand Gulch. They love the ruins and rock art, but most of all they love being outside with each other. For some unknown reason the High Plateau's deep canyons have a way of forging lasting friendships. Love to hear from you!

Since I can only include a limited number of pictures in each blog, I have attached some additional photos in an accompanying entry. I hope you enjoy them.

Kane Gulch to Collins Spring -- May 2008

"Breech Birth"

"Quail Panel"

"Green Mask"

Grand Gulch Ruin

Grand Gulch Granary

"Backyard Bronze"

Bronze-Age-Man

Do you have a rich friend who collects western art? When you visit their upscale home, you probably stand in front of a beautiful stone fireplace talking about the bronze bowl or wildlife statue displayed on the expensive oak mantel. Your host lovingly describes how he or she discovered their treasure in an upscale Loveland, Colorado or Taos, New Mexico art gallery. You listen patiently while they recite the artist's biography and describe in detail other works by the same artist. You want to ask, but good manners prevent you from inquiring about how much they paid. Little do they know that their expensive treasure was probably brought to life in a one-man bronze foundry on the High Plateau?

The guy who brings these works-of-art to life is a good friend who joins us regularly on the porch to eat dinner and share stories. Dangerous, Utah, and Fremont call him Mike, but I know that isn't his real name. Years back I understand he went by Hot-Metal-Man, but the years piled up, so Bronze-Age-Man probably fits better today. Whatever the name, Mike always has a kind word and friendly pat for me.

Cats

A quick glance tells you that "Backyard Bronze" isn't a high tech operation. Mike is a collector who never throws anything away. He is surrounded by an odd collcection of house trailers, steel buildings, wooden sheds, and other stuff. When we visit to help Mike pour bronze, I have to stay in the truck. Dangerous isn't afraid that I will get hurt, but Mike fears me scattering his cats. You have to watch your step because Mike feeds a pride of twenty to thrity, depending on the day, feral cats.

Pouring Bronze

For the most part, Mike is very independent. He spends his days working alone, producing the art you see in rich peoples' homes. He does it all from making the molds, pouring the bronze, and adorning the finished piece. In addition, he builds, wires, maintains, and operates his one-man foundry. On occasion, he does need a little help, and that's where we come in. Even Mike can't cast alone. It is pretty tough for him to lift and pour molten bronze from a 70 to 100 pound crucible by himself. Whenever we are in Grover, Dangerous volunteers to help. Occasionally, Mike presses Utah or Fremont into service. However, Utah is a bit large for the protective clothing required to pour molten bronze, and Fremont is a bit tall, so Dangerous usually ends up helping when available.

High Plateau Social Gathering

Like most things, the High Plateau boys usually turn pouring bronze into a social event. If they aren't giving each other an ongoing hard time while shoeing horses, they sit around between pours verbally jabbing and making fun of each other. After all these years, you would think they would run out of personal insults, but even at their age the creative juices still flow. In between pours, they sit around insulting each other and repeating the same old stories and jokes I have heard a million times.

From the looks of the place, you might question the quality of Mike's finished products. So, to convince you that Backyard Bronze produces quality western art, I have attached an accompanying blog which includes a short picture gallery of Mike's work. Keep an eye open when visiting Santa Fe, Taos, or Boulder. You might stumble into an upscale art gallery features Mike's work. You probably won't know he produced it because the original artist gets all the credit. Break out the old credit card and buy one. You can help keep Mike in business, so we will have some place to go on rainy, cold afternoons. Love to hear from you!

PS Dangerous won't be around for a few days to type for me, so I won't be sharing any High Plateau tales with you until he gets back. He has to work a few days to pay for Trea's new kichen.

"Backyard Bronze" Gallery

Deer Creek Lake

DEER CREEK LAKE TRAIL

We all have our favorite trails. Fremont Bob loves "B-Lewis" Flat, and Utah Jack's favorite is Death Hollow. Ole' Dangerous probably rides the Deer Creek Lake Trail at least six times a year. If you come to ride with Dangerous, rest assured you will see it with him. Even I get a little tired of the same old scenery, but I have to admit the Deer Creek Lake Trail is one of my favorites along with most everyone else.

Lunch

Dangerous likes Deer Creek because it isn't all that steep like most High Plateau trails. He starts Dottie and Little Guy on the Deer Creek Trail to get them in shape and take the jumpiness out of Dottie. Unlike me, both horses are real soft early in the spring, and Dottie hasn't accepted the fact that there is life outside her winter pasture. It also helps that the trail is non-motorized. Occasionally, we cross an ATV track; but for the most part, motorized riders haven't intruded too far into this supposedly protected area.

A relatively flat trail doesn't mean we don't have an occasional accident or near disaster. When you ride an 1,100 pound horse with a mind of its own, accidents happen. It was on the Deer Creek Trail where Dottie knocked Dangerous out of his saddle. She took him off on a tree, and he landed face down in a pile of rocks. Lucky for us only his pride was hurt, and Dottie stopped when she caught up with Hemingway and Scottie. Oh, what names Dangerous hurled at Dottie as he limped along on foot trying to catch up.

Horse Back Philosophers

What really appeals to me is all the water along the trail. Deer Creek Lake is at the end of a relatively steep climb. Situated directly under the rim the lake provides a refeshing stop for me and the horses. I get to cool off with a swim and a roll in the mud. Dottie and Little Guy get a cool drink and time to munch the meadow grass growing around the lake. Dangerous and his buddies take in the scenery while solving the world's problems from horse back. All solutions sound plausible with these guys when sitting tall in their saddles.

Deer Creek Lake

Dangerous has his own route that we follow from the lake. Most hikers and riders don't know about the upper, less traveled trail situated right under the rim. Dangerous has a variety of routes we follow depending on the day and season. During the summer we most always take the higher trail, depending on his "singing saw" to get us through. In the fall, we usually follow the well traveled main trail to take in the beautiful aspen groves in their fall colors. The aspen trees are huge and their beautiful gold leaves carpet the trail in late September.

Another attraction for Dangerous is the wildlife you see on this trail. If you remember back a few blog entries ago, I shared with you a picture of a black bear track. Black bears frequent the Deer Creek Trail regularly along with deer and elk. Dangerous never tires telling the story about riding into a herd of cow elk with their new born calves. According to Dangerous, the mothers and their babies never stood up as he rode among them. You can tell that I wasn't around then. It wouldn't have taken me long to scatter the entire herd.

Well, I am sure you have your favorite trails and places. I would love to hear about them! By the way, Utah Jack caught Dangerous in a serious error. An earlier version included a picture of Long Lake not Deer Creek Lake, so Dangerous had to go back and correct his mistake. Utah Jack caught the mistake and eagerly pointed out the error.

"Smilin' Bob's" Free Range Chicken Farm, LLC

The Bobarsoa

Nestled on a bend of the Fremont River you will find a small cabin on seventeen acres. At first glance, the place looks like a movie set from a John Ford western. Watch a while and you will catch a glimpse of a cowboy walking out the cabin door to feed his stock. Just before dark, his sharp whistle brings three mules and one horse thundering across the Fremont River to get their nightly grain and hay ration. This small southern Utah ranch even has a romantic, sounding western name. The sign out front announces you have found the “Bobarosa.” First time visitors immediately start clicking pictures, recording their romantic discovery of the real American West. Friends and family in Paris, Tokyo, London, and New York are soon glimpsing this picturesque scene. However, little do they know they are sending pictures home of a free range egg farm rather than a working ranch.

Dairy Herd

Actually, this farming operation has two divisions – dairy and eggs. The dairy division isn’t a large operation, but takes a lot of attention. You know immediately where the dairy division is located by the smell. The aromatic aroma of the rutting “billy” catches your attention immediately. And, if you aren’t careful, you will catch more than his smell. Turn your back on this devilish creature and you will get a butt full of horns and forehead. Twice a day, "Heidi-of-Hickman Valley" dawns his milking costume and extracts enough raw milk from the nanny to make cheese. The nanny requires milking twice-a-day, and her kids must be fed to keep them quiet. Depending on the batch, the cheese is quite tasty. However, be careful if Heidi sends you home with a sample. Leave your number with him because he might need to call you before you have a chance to eat it. On occasion, his cheese falls a bit short of state health standards, and he has to rescue someone who has received a generous gift of recently made cheese. Usually, you can tell the batch is bad by placing the gift on your truck seat with the heater on high. That smell isn’t from a raccoon or pack rat dead under your hood.

Easter Eggs

"Smilin' Bob" and Pete

With Easter just around the corner, you might want to take advantage of the egg division. “Smilin’ Bob’s Happy Chicken Egg Farm produces the best free range eggs on the High Plateau. You don’t even have to color “Smilin’ Bob’s” fresh Easter eggs. Since they are free range, they’re already colored in beautiful shades of brown, white, blue, and green. “Smilin’ Bob” guarantees the eggs are as fresh as the day he found them. Who knows how long it took, but bring your own egg cartons to tote them home? If you like a larger egg, “Smilin’ Bob” can accommodate your needs. His geese lay larger eggs if you prefer them to chicken eggs, and they are easier to find. You have to collect them before Sadie and Blue finds them, but there are always plenty to go around. Goose eggs have a size advantage. One will usually fill a frying pan and feed two grown men.

Sooth the Savage Beasts

Hang around awhile and you will get to hear “Smilin’ Bob” play his concertina. He usually plays to sooth the savage old “billy,” and to get his chickens and geese to lay. As you can tell, Bob is a multi-talented man – cowboy, chicken farmer, musician, and goat herder. Click away with your cameras, but remember that there is more to the “Bobarosa” than meets the eye. Share your romantic pictures of the American West with friends and relatives, but remember that working ranches are often more than they appear. Love to hear from you!